Boynton Trail Sedona

Sedona Arizona 

March 16th, 2020

64 degrees 

I awoke a few times at our camp sight in the night to the sound of the stream and it was so loud I was sure I would wake up at sea, or at least my car to have floated away. 

But no, I woke to my kind boyfriend making breakfast. 

I ran about the campsite looking at rocks, and sticks and lizards, and enjoyed the morning. 

Then we cleaned up camp and drove along more dirt roads to our destination: Boynton Trailhead. 

In the parking lot was a very lean and dust covered man who told us where to park. We were a bit skeptical as he looked more like a drifter than a member of the park service. He then shared with us her volunteers for the park service to assist hikers and kindly pointed us to the tail-head. 

This trail started out by looking like a scene in the Wizard of Oz, you know the one with the wide flat path, and the short scrubby trees. No yellow brick road but the red earth leads you on and upward along a rock wall. There are lots of spots where a hiker gets glimpses, interesting rock formations in the distance. This trail  has the charm of a Japanese garden, little peaks of really beautiful shapes around corners and though branches.  

We for a short time could hear a person working at a resort below the hike, some sound like a weed eater, or a lawn mower. I found the sound nostalgic it reminded of days playing in my room and hearing that my Mom and Dad were right outside. 

One section  of the hike was a natural hallway lined with blooming manzanita shrubs, and white butterflies with orange wings. The red branches, the green leaves and the white bell shaped flowers with bits of pink set agains a backdrop of blue sky and towering rusty mountains was awe inspiring, an in addition to the visual beauty was the delicate floral smell of the blossoms. A true sensory treat. 

Following the manzanita hallway was a wooded forest. The trail curled into the trees, tall pines with vertical red sandstone walls on each side. At times we could hear water falling down the walls and disappearing under the rocks and behind tall grasses but could not always see it. 

After this there was a short climb and I do admit some whining, but it was my birthday and I was able to whine and climb in good spirits. 

I am grateful to have a partner who is supportive and enjoys the wild like I do . At the end of the trail we sat on a sloping bit of sandstone and looked  out at the mountain made of rocks. In areas where water runs it has turned black. 

We shared a peanut better and jelly sandwich and good conversations. Then hiked back down to see the vortex. On the way up I thought we were going to the vortex so I had a brief tantrum concerned I would not get to feel whatever one feels from magical lines in the Earth but we did find the area that is a "vortex hotspot", it was a bit of a climb to the area but defiantly worth it, and you know you are there because lots of humans can be found sitting cross legged across the landscape. We climbed up and found a spot among the others. Chad looked one way I looked another. There was a vast valley before me and a rock that looked like e.t. then after some time in quiet medication we headed down the hill to the car, another great day filled with challenge, friendship, color, and beauty. 

Cathedral Trail

This was the second of my birthday weekend hikes. The first the beautiful one in Phoenix (see previous post) 

Place: Sedona Arizona 
Trail: Cathedral Trail 
March 15, 2020 last day before I turned 44. 
It was 63 degrees 

We had some trouble finding the trail head. Chad's phone map stops working each time we get close. I turn the car around and navigate the roundabout a few times, as Chad huffs and grovels with his frustration. 

We do at last find the trail head. It is impossible to park close due to the spots popularity.
So we find a spot up the hill with the car tilted off the side of the road and we joyfully popped out the car and wandered down the road to the trail head. 

This soil was a rich red and seemed damp like clay ready to be fired. The red soil, the green trees, and the blue sky always make Sedona seem unreal. Again like the purple cholla field in the Tortillas the world is a vibrant photograph come to life. Blooming Manzanita, cypress trees with winding roots, and pinion pines greet as at the beginning as we climb to the cathedral 

There were quite a few people but all are cordial with one another. I think it helped my expectation was to be ready for other humans and I enjoyed most of them. 

I do in my head start to curse my love a little as my fear of heights meets me at a narrow crack up the hill. There is a small platform where we move out of the way for hikers descending down. I feel my familiar vertigo my head spins and my hands shake and worry I wont be able to continue. 

Thinking back my fear feels silly. I am strong and agile and climb easily. Vertigo is the real challenge, as dizziness, and long falls seems to be a valid fear. 

The hike is worth it. There are piles of rocks  in metal cages shaped like cylinders that mark the way when the trail is not there or hard to find. There were also markings that say "Healing in Progress" for over traveled areas, which is a nice reminder to stay on the trail. 

At the top of the accent you can see a vast landscape and tall red spheres of sandstone. This area is called a "vortex".

A vortex is a place that has magnetic pull. It is supposed to be healing. 

As I sit on the edge of a cliff face. Chad reminds me to breath and as do I can look out at the valley below. I close my eyes and feel the wind on my face and feel my body soften and perhaps it is magic because I feel no fear on the decent. 

We see two different brides coming to this cathedral to be married (or at least to take photos). My favorite in a bride in a beautiful dress and black hiking boots. I do love contrast. 

We end the hike at a stream. I take off my socks and shoes and rest my feet in the cold water. Chad joins me and we sit on the red sandstone the cold water running over our feet. The stream runs through the pinion pines. We watch families pass telling there little ones not to get there shoes wet, they look at us and have moments of defiance. Even though the evening is not hot the act is a primal calling and it is a refreshing gift on my sore and tried feet. 

We climb the hill to the car and decide to stop for pizza. I order and Orange Blossom beer that is delicious. Chad I think had an IPA. It is almost too cold to sit outside but we do it anyway. 

Then we find a campsite for the night in an area that is like and old ranch, rugged trees, large rocks and run off ditches next to a windy dirt road. Chad finds enough logs for a brief fire and in the dark of the night we snuggle together for warmth and the sky is as beautiful as city lights in the distance at night, it is salt on an Oreo cookie, it is a light bright with all the lights plugged in. It is Christmas night on that street everyone drives slow through and it is all natural magic via stars. 

South Mountain Perserve

Place: South Mountain Preserve

Phoenix AZ 

Status of Humans: Hungover 

no dogs 

no child 

Humans 1 Michelle 43 Years old 1 Chad 45 Weather Pleasant 

Hike: Holbert Trail. 

Distance 4.6 miles (plus a smidge more for missing our turn in the dark) 

This trail head was inhabited by a birthday party. We met the matriarch of the party, a kind women sporting a tiny pink crown made of sparkled paper. tilted just to the left in her grey hair. She shared the family was celebrating her grand daughters birthday. The party had larger than life Toy Story characters -Woody and Buzz Lightyear Conga dancing with the people celebrating, it seemed a bit surreal. 

Chad and I glanced at the party, greeted the grandmother and began our trek onto the Holbert trail. 

 Large rocks stained black with rust red insides pile up around us. For plants I saw familiars from Tucson, ocotillo, prickly pear, and barrel cactus. 

In the wash at the beginning of the trail there were three large circular fire pits. I liked imagining the people of Phoenix on a cool spring night celebrating in that spot, friends circled around fire pits, enjoying the desert night. 

There were petroglyphs on this hike, people of simple design carved onto the rock. 

One of the nice things about this hike was the change in perspective. It takes a hiker up, up, up, above the city and a hiker can see the valley down below to the right. 

There were wildflowers everywhere so many of them were purple I did not know their names.

 

The hike curls up out of the valley. Other hikers walked by carrying bouquets of picked wild flowers and we stoped to admire a tree on the side of the trail that had beautiful shaped branches. 

I waited more time than usual to add this entry into my nature journal and I could feel my mind aching to recapture how truly lovely this hike was. 

It was steep enough to give my legs a work out. The work out sweated out my poor choices of the night before. I felt my sleepy-foggy-self burn off and as I gained focus, I felt strong and the hike topped out in an area where saguaros were gold in the setting sun. We rounded a corner to find a hedgehog in full bloom, a blot of fuchsia in the green, tan and gold. landscape. Dessert magnolias with their sage green leaves dot the landscape adding texture and color, not that the desert needs the extra texture but the splashes of yellow and sage let this hiker know it was defiantly spring. 

At the top at sunset I turned my phone on to discover the school I was to work at on the 17th of March would be closed due to the pandemic. I panicked a bit as the sun set around me rambling on about my concerns of perhaps being out of work. Having just moved and not wanting to have to rely on my partners income. 

Then 

the quiet rocks and landscape 

in the dusk 

took all my worries 

and I 

like the landscape 

fell quiet. 

At least for a moment until I began to worry that I would step on a rattle snake. Or Chad would, and he is too big to carry down a hill. I turned on my head lamp to look about for them and Chad got upset saying "I was blinding him in the eyes" I got fussy about his response then tried to fix the light to a softer setting, embarrassed. In the distance before I turned on the light the city lights could be seen. I found them beautiful like jewels in an otherwise dark landscape. Chad shared he did not like them. I understand they show civilization. We are no longer in the wild. I suppose I love the city and the wild and can feel my feet standing in between. 

This hike is just outside Phoenix Arizona 1.63 million people. My expectations were a crowded hike but we only ran across a handful of hikers. I think this has to do with the time we ventured out, returning to the car in the dark close to 8pm or perhaps the other change on the horizon. 

We then went to Indian food at Star of India then napped in the car like babies or puppies a quick transition from play to sleep. The world at this this moment was changing. I did not really grasp it yet. The quiet of Corona was arriving, the hike and the restaurant were impacted.   

Constellation Trail

International Woman's Day

 03/08/2020

 1.7 miles 

Motivation to go: Low 

Fun had: High 

It was a bit cold out, my Tucson blood was still thin and I felt lazy to hide under blankets in the house. But, I knew the fresh air would do us all good. 

The trail began flat and sandy and I  commented, it seemed like a nice place to run. Chad promptly pointed out, "It does not remain flat". Chad is familiar with this trail as it just a short drive from his home. Only recently did they add a charge of $3 to park at the trailhead.

Something about this space has me drawn to it. I want to stop on my way home and slink off into the trees. The large cottonwood trees at the beginning of the trail head offer shade and mystique. 

There was a space before the trail ended where two trees leaning together made an arch. I like imagining these kind of spaces are magic portals. As, I slip through, I am transformed into a frog. Chad chooses a dragonfly. I tell he him to "look out" as he would then be my snack. He decides he would be a giant dragonfly, too big for me to eat, and we would form a friendship and travel together. This hike throughout indulges our imagination. There was a shape in one rock that looked like a pet or some sort of cartoon, we named him Brutus with no need to tell him to stay. 

There was another rock that was set up high and looked like and artists depiction of a goddess yoni and thighs. 

A perfect celebration of the female form. 

Chad and I stand in one spot sharing all we see in the rocks like children looking at clouds. 

Back on the grounded earth this hike is typical of The Dells, large granite boulders, scrub oaks, and deer and love grass. The birds were the occasional scrub jay and a local bird I don't know yet. I see it in our front yard. The bird is orange and black with white flecks or spots contrasting in its black  feathers. The birds eyes are also a bright orange. Thanks to the internet I learned it is a western spotted towhee. I like meeting this new bird. His song sounds a bit like a Mexican singer rolling his/her "r". 

Drawing of the Towhee 

A short hike but overall an enjoyable experience, rooted in imagination and always the case the hike washed the lazy away and we leave feeling fresh. 

Upper Pasture Trail #38 - Giant Alligator Juniper Trail

Giant Alligator Juniper Trail 

2/29/20 
4.7 mile 

This hike can be done as a spiritual act to celebrate the sacrifice of firefighters.  It is basically a gentle path to a Large Alligator Juniper. The large alligator juniper is a beautiful sight. I did feel a bit sad looking at it.  As I understand it 20 fire fighters saved the alligator tree's life in what was called the doce fire of 2013 . Then, unfortunately, a few days later, 18 of the same fire crew died in another fire. The tree now stands as symbolism for life, for what the fire crew were able to do before their lives were lost. This grandfather tree now stands alive and well covered in pens from fire departments and red bananas draped around the tree. 

Around the shrine there are others trees not so lucky, they are black and chard , they stand present in the area like ghosts, gentle reminders of impermanence.  

For us,  we began the hike by parking at Contreras trail parking lot then walking the main road to
trail-head #38.  The road to the trail-head was a bit too rugged for Chad's Prius. #wimpycarthatisgreatonfuel

The transition from Contreras trail parking lot  #38 was an up hill trek on a dirt road with beautiful views of Granite Mountain. I think this hike might be challenging in moist weather due to sticky mud building up on your shoes as on this date we could see where trucks of a rainy time left deep indents in the road. 

There was no evidence of trucks on #38 just on the road up to the trail. I enjoyed walking on the road but if you were with someone with a different fitness level taking a high clearance car to the trail head would defiantly cut out the difficulty.  

Once at the trail-head the hills were spotted with pines and juniper. There was just enough wind that the trees danced a bit back and forth. Mingus stopped to look at a dancing tree a few times not sure if it was the wind or alive. He looked at me, then at the tree, and cocked his head, and I followed suit, looking at Chad, then back at the tree. Chad our logical one said, "Yep that's a tree in the wind."

Maybe it was a local wind ghost? oooo eeee ooooo.... wind ghosts and firefighters seem to be contrasting types, wind fuels fire, firefighters put it out... 

In addition to the wind, there was a flock of blue birds, that seemed to be traveling with us moving from tree to tree. I did some research post hike and there is a man in Oregon named Hubert Prescott who created the Prescott Bluebird Recovery Project. He is in no way related to my new home in Prescott Az but his friend the Western Blue Bird was seen with a pack of its relatives,  juniper to jumper on #38. 

#38 had areas with evidence of erosion places you could see naked roots, loose soil, and cracks in the earth. Chad (a forest service hydrologist) told us the forest service crew plans to make repairs.  I wonder now if they are done?

A fun little fact is that this trail leads to places were cows frequent, evidence via cow-pies and even a salt lick.  I think it would be fun to share the trail with some cows but Mingus would probably think he was on job and heard them off. 

There was what Chad called a "tank" or small body of water created for cows. Mingus and Moly got in to goof off and It was amusing watching them navigate the water which clearly had a sticky bottom. 

We then walked next to blooming manzanita's February seems a bit early, I guess they were trying to get a jump on spring. Manzanita is one of my favorite plants. I love the dark red bark and its wavy lines contrasted with the green leaves. 

There was also a small stream next to the trail. Mingus and Moly enjoyed drinking and playing in the water and there was no worry for any one to run out of water to drink. 

The hike back to the car was just as nice the days weather was perfect. There was even a large raven that let me stand pretty close to him and take a photo. I realize now writing this here that there were so many existential symbols on this day. 

A phrase I love and think of often is from Mary Oliver in her poem A Summer Day "Tell me what will you do with your one wild and precious life?" For me, exploring the natural world is a good start. 

Willow Lake Loop Trail

Willow Lake Loop Trail
2/15/2020 

Our hike was just under 7 miles. 
The internet says this loop is 5.7. 

Its mid February in Prescott, Arizona and the weather can be defined as perfect. Something like 67 degrees with the sun out. Winter is leaving but not quite gone. The hike we chose on February 15th, 2020 was very close to Chad's home. His home that I moved into on February 7th. Yes very close to Valentines Day it's so romantic, and yea I know it was a bit nuts. Just ten months of dating and moving in, but I was sick of driving back and forth and we had dated a year or so twenty some years before. So here we are housemates. 

If you decide to hike this loop there are a few options of places to start, a dog park, a boat ramp, a pull off from Willow Lake road. We began by crossing a swampy field, walking along a rocky hillside to a big beautiful cottonwood with a bench under it. This tree stands close to the first sign that reads "follow the dots".  The trial is marked by spray painted white dots on the rocks to follow. 

I bowed to the tree in its winter nakedness in exchange for a long look at her boughs and off we looped. In the water we saw ducks, Canadian geese, great blue herring, and those water birds that look like black footballs with white beaks (coots) quacking, cooting and splashing about. Also while on the hike there was in informative sign that pointed out there are two kinds of cormorants present. One could be distinguished from the other by having more yellow on its beak. 

The landscape in this area is called "The Dells" which comes from the french word "dalles" meaning layers of rock . And true to the name Willow lake is surrounded by large granite boulders. The first three miles involves many scrambles over rocks. Which is fun and challenging .There are times a hiker feels small and humble as you slip through crevasses, huge rocks on either side of you. Other times the landscape feels foreign and quiet like the moon. We stopped and rested in a place where the only other movement we saw was a Steller's Jay dressed in his classic black and blue fathers and contrasted nicely to a field of yellow grass that had grown in shallow soil. It was a place where I felt as if we were the only people in the world cradled in rocks. 

At one point we descended down a long flight of wooden stairs to a stretch I was particularly fond of because there were large cottonwood trees and the ground was soft and muddy.  Present were two kinds of moss one that was a bright green and another lighter more earthy moss dressed in dew. Whenever I see moss I wish I was really small so I could stretch out on it and rest on it.  

                                                                                                          🙆

About mile 4 we came out of the boulders to a more urban area, there was a parking lot where the less mobile seeker of nature, or people just interested in a rest can picnic by Willow Lake can begin there journey, no need to scramble and you could take a wheel chair here. Also it is very beautiful, cottonwood trees line the edge of the water creating shade and a place to land a lawn chair. Having moved from the land of very little water, the lake is memorizing, the way it reflects the sky above, the hills in the distance, houses, the ducks, and the flocks of cormorants, it nearly took my breath away.

Dogs in trouble with Chad post fight 

At one point we found a spot to rest under the large cottonwoods and the dogs got into a scuffle which unsettled us both. They sound so terrifying when they fight. They are still adjusting  to being housemates and have a love-hate relationship with one another.  I have been told the older female is meant to be the boss, and Moly has been working hard at letting everyone know this is a fact. Fortunately the fight did not last long and no one was injured (except perhaps my nervous system). 

Me with trail mix 

At about mile six I stop to eat trail-mix. Its so delicious we call it "crack" even if full, a person wants to shove handfuls into their face and in that moment I was hungry. I felt like Golum from the Lord of the Rings "my precious" peanuts, M&M, raisins, and other nuts. In front of me I watched Ming and Moly frolick together in the water like best friends, their scuffle forgotten as I scowled at Chad for taking my photo. 

When I got back to the house I went strait to take a nap. A long hike can wear a person out. I drifted off to sleep with visions of boulders and water decorated by ducks in my head. 

Tortolita Mountain Trails

On January 18th, 2020. 
Site: Tortolita Mountains 

Travelers- Humans: Myself and Chad. 
                  Dogs: Mingus-German Shepherd raised by me 
                  Molybdenum aka Moly (Labrador) raised by Chad 

Chad the other human and I dated when we were 22 years old for a year or two. We were adorable so young and fit and full of ourselves.  On the date of this hike we had been back together for about 9 months. We are now in our 40's and thank goodness no longer idealistic youth (well at least no longer youth). 

Even though we have a preference for our own pups  we had begun to call the dogs "our dogs". 

On this date I lived in Tucson, Arizona and Chad lived in Prescott, AZ. For dating we were driving back and forth and exploring the local landscapes together. I enjoyed sharing  my love for the desert with him and he seemed to be more chill in the winter (literally and figuratively).

So on a beautiful day in January we packed up "our dogs" and headed out to hike some trails in The Tortolia Mountain range. This range was once the home of the Hohokam native people and though we did not see them on this date there are some historic sites here.

What I do know is that there has been some historical conflict between environmentalists and  developers for this land. Thank goodness to good humans the area we hiked on this date is protected land.

The hike we completed was about six miles with 1,250 feet of elevation change. The plants around us were the  Sonoran desert regulars: cholla, ocotillo, mesquite, yucca, and agave. The trail began with a short trek in a dry wash surrounded by mesquite tress.

A wash is a sandy place to walk, so when there are no monsoon rains it is just an empty river bed. During this part of the hike we had to stop occasionally to kick rock hitchhikers out of our shoes. I have sense bought some dirty girl gaiters. https://dirtygirlgaiters.com/ (not a paid ad I just love them) which help with rocks who want to ride in shoes. 

 In the wash under a twisted mesquite  tree that was offering shade we met a nice young couple and we chatted with them about dogs and hiking. Oh how I miss the days of standing close to strangers, this was of course before Covid. Meanwhile while we were chatting up some strangers Molly was  enjoying a smelling exploration and got herself the spine from a cholla stuck right into her paw. The spine of the cholla is a round little part from the cactus that is covered in spikes. A person can not remove a cholla spine with their hand or their hand will also be full of spikes. The Cholla have a strong will to live.

Chad and I sprung to action. He held Molly so she did not try to remove it with her little dog mouth, while I pulled out a comb from my pack (a desert first aid basic) and I used it to quickly flick the cactus off her paw. Chad seemed like he had to fight the urge to grab that cactus and save his pup from pain, but as a team we got it done and continued our hike as a team.

Cholla (only photo not  from the day of the hike) 

Cholla are called jumping cactus for a reason. Their spines spring from the main cactus all about the ground to start a new family. Occasionally hitching a ride on a passer by. 

The trail we picked climbed quickly. Physically it is a bit like climbing flights of stairs but visually it was much more complex. One could see large rocks, cactus covering the mountains, and the sandy wash below. In the distance I could see a man-made pond and a golf course. A reminder of what things would look like without the battle for the land. I notice the pond and golf course were so stiff and ridged in contrast to the natural landscape, not odd and crooked like the cholla, or mesquite. Even the tall saguaro has its imperfections.

After the initial climb Chad and I took a break at a bench provided for hikers (well I stopped for a break and he surrendered to a moment of rest). I enjoyed a sandwich I had packed and apple as I stared at a tall rock face, with angled lines and saguaros at its base.

After the rest at the bench the real beauty began. Purple cholla began to cover the landscape with orange and yellow fruits. They stood present like sunsets. Then the mountains began to rise as the trail dipped down between them.

The light on this day and the season was brilliant, vibrant blue, bright yellow, and orange next to purple branches. The day was photo filter for vibrancy  but in real time.

There were some plants there that I did not know, they looked like an agave but were shorter with fat green leaves and yellow edges.

We hiked the Wild Burro trail and took the spur shortcut so we could return to the car. We had hoped to go to Alamo springs but wished we had packed more water for a longer day of exploring. There was not water for the dogs or us except what was on our backs.

When we got to the parking area we landed on a picnic bench  with a pergola up above us and enjoyed eating some lifesaver candies. I love the citrus lifesavers best and I noticed how the hues of the candies are just like the desert and these kinds of spaces save my life daily. What a treat.